NZ - HAHEI & Cathedral Cove

we tear down camp first thing and head over to the camp office to meet yet another merry Kiwi….it turns out that there is a flat road in and out of Waikawau Bay…the GPS betrayed us….we have options and an easy road out to Coromondel…..we can return if we wish or we can explore….after a rousing Coromondel Cafe bacon and egg pie, mussel chowder and a long black, we decide to push on towards Tauranga…..the road is spectacular and we stop at Random Beach for a private walk and shell gathering event…..further up the road we find Hot Water Beach….crazy place full of nutty people digging in the sand for hot springs…..we swim for a bit then head up to Cathedral Cove…..this is a great hike with a beautiful reward….we decide to stay in the neighbouring town, Hahei for the night and are lucky to find a nice pair of studios…..dinner is, you guessed it, fish and chips, chicken burgers, etc….sunset on Hahei Beach is brilliant, wifi sucks…..and, once again, sleep comes easy.....

birds eye view of the Coromondel Inlet....bacon and egg pie & mussel chowder....start your day a little bit better!

crossing the range on the road to Hahei......

palm tree pose....it's really a giant fern.....

strolling up Random Beach - another private beach - for a shell hunt.......what fun!

can't resist the contrast of colours.....

look, I found a pink one.....what did you find??

Cathy digging in the sand at Hot Water Beach trying to get to the hot springs......

the water temperatures get up to 64C.....you have to mix hot and cold water or else you get scalded....crazy Kiwi's!!

the hike to Cathedral Cove - vistas everywhere.....

the ladies pause to enjoy the beautiful views....

a little yellow bird stops to visit....

another view from the trail.....what a great walk!!

the cathedral at Cathedral Cove.....amen baby!

the passage to the south end.....

views from the south end.....

rocks in the cove area that have been worn by millions of years of oceanic activity......

happy hikers heading back to the car park.......

the north end of Hahei Harbour.....

another incredible Norfolk pine at Hahei Beach......

NZ - WAIKAWAU BAY

we get an early start…again, military precision and timing in tearing down the camp - good job Team Poutine!!……breakfast at Soda is even better than the day before…we find a new GPS at the south end of town (something crushed the one that Jess brought) and we begin the drive south….about 60km north of Auckland the alternator packs it in and we are stranded on the Orewa off ramp. we haul out the chairs and wave to the friendly Kiwis that seem compelled to honk and wave at us….sorry, no autographs….it takes almost 4 hours but we get a new car and are back on the road…we are going to be hard pressed to make camp before the gates close but we press on….the new GPS leads us on and takes us through a shorter but impossible narrow gravel road which climbs up one side of a mountain then down the other….we arrive late (and drenched in a cold sweat) but have access to the camp site….another perfect tent setting…..we had no time to pick up supplies and could not find an open restaurant - tonight we dine on peanut butter sandwiches….surprisingly good with the gherkins and avocados that we have left….the beach is incredible but it is too late to swim…..the wind is strong and we are not comfortable with the thought of driving over the mountain to get food then driving back to the camp site - the road is really not safe….the winds of Mordor Customs are strong and the lure of the permanent Canadian address is drawing us closer and closer…we come dangerously close to wishing we were back home but then we drink a glass of New Zealand wine…the winds subside and the winds of Mordor Customs fade into the distance….sleep will be uneasy tonight….tomorrow a new plan must be made…

despite the very crappy luck, the scenery still looks pretty good and worth photographing...

the destination is just around the corner and "over the mountain by gravel road"....of course I look like a tourist!......

a couple of overgrown asparagus I'm thinking??

the calm before the storm.....

NZ - OTAMURE BAY -Waipoua Forest & Hokianga Harbour

the day starts with a windy road into Whangerei where we accidentally discover Soda, a little coffee/breakfast place….the coffee is amazing and the food even better…even the prices are ok….our first stop after breakfast is Dargaville….the road there is beautiful…the northern interior is lush and green with rolling hills, tall green mountains and charming villages and farms….the roads are great….we find a little information centre/wood carving shop….the guy is humorous and helpful - more Kiwi charm…we make our way north to the Waipoua Forest….the forests have a lot of species but this forest has more of the kauri tree which is endangered…..we stop to take in the Tane Mahuta, a kauri tree that is over 2000 years old….the tree is revered by all New Zealanders and is legendary as a giver of life…the kauri species was all but wiped out by the British during the colonization of Australia….drop off the convicts then go pick up some kauri wood…..the wood is ideal hardwood for fine carpentry and machining - who could have resisted?…from here we head north to Hokianga Harbour… we stop in the harbour town, Opononi for fish and chips which appears to be the New Zealand national dinner….spectacular - and the harbour ain’t bad either…..our next stop is the Bay of Islands…..again the drive is spectacular but the rain starts and by the time we hit Russell, the Bay is overcast and inaccessible…..we head back to town for a little dinner and pick up some Ready Roast - it’s a take out place that is popular on the North Island - beef, lamb, pork or chicken roast with veggies and gravy…..the roasts are incredible and the portions make me smile…..we drive it to camp with a pork dinner for Bruce and sit together for a last dinner with him…Bruce is happy with his dinner and shares more Kiwi stories…..we will be heading for Waikawau Bay tomorrow with a little stop in Auckland…..we will miss Bruce..

it's better that you read the story of Tane Mahuta yourself.....my interpretation is probably a little slanted....

the great tree itself....this is truly a spiritual place.....looks pretty good for 2000 years old....

having a couple of mini mahutas in front of the tree might lend a little perspective....photo courtesy of a very tall guy from Hamburg dressed as a chimney sweep and his Kiwi partner.....lovely people I must say!!

no tropical paradise is complete without the free roaming colourful roosters.....hmmmmmhhhhmm.....chickennnnnn!!

Hokianga Harbour - good fish and chips!!.....

NZ - OTAMURE BAY DAY 2

today is recharge day…..we hike over to do some yoga on the private beach and have a swim….we take the chairs with us and relax in the shade and cool our wine in the sand at the waters edge….another sunny day…..we make some plans to explore the area….we head back to camp and meet Bruce…..he is a local Auckland resident who is travelling on his own in an RV located a couple of spots down from us…he invites us into the shade and shares some coffee and stories….he is pretty cool and fun to talk to - he has a great sense of humour…..he gives us some travel tips then we all decide to head into the little local town and walk across the longest man made bridge in the southern hemisphere - probably local lore but what the heck….Bruce and I spot a tui gathering nectar….there are funny little fat fish swimming under the bridge….Bruce is a real bird lover and has endless knowledge of the habits of birds….I’m learning some Kiwi language….we head back to camp and all have dinner together….tomorrow we head to the Tasman Sea side...

Jess celebrates her NZ christening.......

now 3 little maids in a gum tree - somewhere up above our private beach.....

home sweet home....sandwiched between the Pacific Ocean and rolling hills filled with cattle and sheep -- very crazy place...

the Whananaki public school.....looks like the yard monitor could use a little prune juicer!!

random giant Norfolk pines are seen everywhere.....no christmas lights though??

this bird is the size of a turkey.....I forget the name but it is a wild bird....

remember this sign...."pedestrian access only"....like there could be any other kind of access??

that's Bruce on the right......very cool guy with a ton of information to offer......and the coffee wasn't bad either!!

shore walking on a peaceful NZ afternoon.....

the bridge from the east side.....

this bird is a tui....they love nectar and are very shy.....this plant is a flax and each of the little flowers contain nectar....really...

so this guy is riding a unicycle across the bridge - - hey, pedestrian access only!!.....those Kiwi's

I don't know....red bills and legs and black feathers.....shore birds.....actually, even the seagulls have red beaks and feet....some bird solidarity thing maybe??

NZ - OTAMURE BAY DAY 1

we start with a morning yoga on the beach followed by a hike over to the next bay…..the trail to the beach is pretty simple and the bay is quiet and very beautiful….the crazy combination of lush farm hills and golden beaches is a peculiar but charming contrast…..the trail is dense with vegetation, flowers and insanely beautiful trees….the water is turquoise and we have an entire beach to ourselves - this is a pretty big beach!…….we all swim (Linda is now NZ christened) and take in the beauty then head back down to the camp beach…….after some more beach time at the camp site, Linda and I leave Cathy behind and go to pick up Jess…..we pick up some more camp supplies (the foam mattresses are too hard for the girls and we are out of food) then drive back into Auckland on the wrong side of the road and find the airport and Jessica - her flight is over an hour late……the drive back to the camp will mean windy dark roads this time but the time flies by in the excitement of catching up with Jess - we haven't seen her for over a year…..the camp manager has given me the combination to the fence so that we can come in late but I try unlocking the wrong fence….after about 10 minutes of fumbling in the dark, the camp manager comes out and takes me to the right fence…..jet lag or maybe just plain Carter lag??….we bring a sub to Cathy who has dined on granola bars and oranges for most of the day…..we are all together now in New Zealand……we take our camp chairs over to the ridge to catch up and watch the big moon on Otamure Bay…..a little teal duck circles our chairs over and over - very peculiar and somehow ceremonial……the waves make great background music…..sleep comes easy….

!!!WARNING!!! - all "maid" references in this blog are derived from Gilbert & Sullivan's The Mikado (Three Little Maids From School Are We)! I can assure you that we all shared in the travel chores equally and might I say happily!

gum trees everywhere...clinging to the hillside...

2 little maids, sitting in a gum tree....

the colour of the water is unbelievable....the beach is empty...

we pick out our spot after several minutes of discussion and uncertainty.....

then into the "refreshing" water.....

then out of the "refreshing" water.....

ARRIVING IN NEW ZEALAND - FUZZY FACTS!

Kiwi Customs were surprisingly dis-interested in the international homeless couple….our tents were more of a concern to them but fortunately they passed the Middle Earth bio-hazard examination and we were all cleared to enter NZ…Cathy was pretty freaked out about our detour down "Line 1" where the extra scrutiny takes place and waited anxiously for word of our arrest and detention but the gods were kind and within 15 minutes we emerged from the principal's office looking relieved and tired........the morning is warm, clear and fragrant  - something sweet in the air - - we pick up the car and the first NZ adventure begins…..left side of the road, right hand steering wheel….seriously, if you have never done this….oh my god!!…we head into Auckland on the wrong side of the road looking for a Kmart and some camping supplies….the map sucks, the driver has jet lag and NZ don’t believe in too many signs…..oh yea, did I mention roundabouts??…..what the hell are the rules in roundabouts???….I received no coaching, advice or related preparation….it is a miracle that we did not get into a fender bender….after several near misses and a renewed memory of profanity not used since my youth, we accidentally find a shopping area (forget finding Kmart) and buy some stuff….there are few signs of Christmas in the stores (other than huge crowds)…we find some camping gear and have a couple of meat pies - my pie filling is buttered chicken and very seriously good……somehow we find the road north and we head up to Otamure Bay for our first camp out….we stop in a nearby town for supplies….the day is hot, we are pretty jet lagged but ya gotta eat….BBQ chicken, that’ll do it…..Northland roads wind like Austrian mountain roads - the corners are steep and one minute you are climbing, the next you are descending…..when we finally arrive, we are greeted by our first real Kiwis and they are friendly and helpful….after I back into one of the 10km speed signs for the camp car road, we set up tents by the ocean - talk about military precision, the tents are done in record time…..Cathy and I swim and Linda watches…..the water is refreshing (which is the Kiwi word for cold)….sleep comes easy for me but the girls are not quick to adjust to tent sleeping (good thing the car seats fold back)……tomorrow we re-unite with Jess……and get softer camping mattresses for the ladies…I hope I remember which side of the road to use……

FLYING TO NEW ZEALAND - FUN FACTS!

Greetings to all…….we are back on the road or in the skies I suppose….Cathy, Linda and I made the trek from Toronto to Auckland and are currently sitting on Air New Zealand flight 64 - we are less than an hour from Auckland Airport as I write this…..there are a few photos taken from inside the plane but time was precious so we were unable to obtain any good airport photos of us being interrogated by the both Air Canada in Toronto and Air New Zealand in Vancouver….Cathy boarded both flights without incident but both airlines held Linda and I up for “random” inquiry…..we were required to provide a copy of our return itinerary and other details of our international intentions - our Canadian address did not seem to matter to them……I do believe that U.S. Customs have tagged us as “suspicious” (see earlier blogs for details) and perhaps even as international “homeless” people…..I guess that we are not just a U.S. threat but now we are an International threat……who said retirement was boring??….more than anything, the whole thing is just silly and annoying.....fortunately we left so much time for checking in that the only danger of missing a flight happened in Vancouver when the flight from Toronto departed 45 minutes late, then Cathy’s carry on in Toronto had to be checked in because the on board carry on was full and then Linda and I were slowed by this second interrogation - despite the 2 hour stopover, we barely made the flight……I guess that we will have to be that much more careful in planning any future trips….we haven’t been through Auckland customs yet but I’m sure that we will have to go through the same thing with them - maybe more severe……on another note, 14 hour flights are interesting….I think that an overnight flight was the best way of doing this and there were a ton of movies if you can’t sleep….we all slept……I feel surprisingly good although a shower and toothbrush would make things that much better……we have almost arrived at Middle Earth…we are very excited about this next adventure and in one more sleep we will have our daughter back for more than 6 weeks and our new Middle Earth adventure officially begins….Kiwi Canucks…..The Fellowship of the Poutine…..as they set off to carry their permanent Canadian address to Mordor Customs and return it to the customs data base for the last time….then and only then will the gentle folk of Middle Earth be able to live in true and everlasting peace!!…..and have a good vacation to boot!….now that is the stuff of legends!!.......